Day 21 – Oklahoma

Having achieved our two primary goals for this trip, it was now time to turn the truck westward and begin our trek home. Our choice of road was to follow Hwy 70 which traverses almost all of Oklahoma. Although the interstate freeways are usually faster, we feel you miss some of the character of the land that you are driving across.

Traveling from the eastern border to the western border over the course of a couple days, the changes in landscape was apparent. The eastern portion of the state had rolling hills and deciduous forests. As we travelled west, those hills leveled out until the land became flat open plains.


The western portion of the state had many farms and ranches. Some extended as far as the eye could see. 

Pat pointed out that the road was running perfectly straight in front of us to the horizon and when he  looked at the side mirrors, it was just as straight behind us..

It’s funny how you have an impression of a place based on movies or novels. That was the case for us with regard to Oklahoma. We had heard of the Oklahoma Land Rush of 1889, but always pictured it as a flat dry desert land. However, the land we travelled was green and verdant.

Someday we will travel back to Oklahoma to see some other areas of the state. One reason to see the northern portion of the state is because my mother’s family came west on a wagon train, from Oklahoma City to Burlington, Washington.

Interestingly, my maternal great grandfather had a life story that could have been the basis for western novels. His name was Charles (Chaz) E. Guernsey. According to an interview of him by a field worker on Indian History for the University of Oklahoma, he was an Indian agent for the Sac and Fox tribe, he participated in the land run of 1889, and he had a cattle ranch in the Texas panhandle. I had also heard that he was a Texas Ranger, but I don’t have confirmation of that.



Hmmm, maybe I should try my hand at writing a western novel based on great grandfather Chaz.




**The following are notes from an interview with Chaz Guernsey, on April 17, 1937**

            I was born in Niles, Michigan, in 1849 and while I was still a boy we moved to Illinois and later to Iowa. I was living in Iowa when I heard that the government needed men to help move the Indians out of Kansas, so I sent in my application, and was accepted. I went to Lincoln County and went to work in 1869 when I was twenty-one years old.

            I went to the new Sac and Fox Agency in the Indian Territory in March of 1870. The Sac and Foxes had been moved to their new reservation in the fall of 1869. Through a mistake, they had located too far east and were really in the Creek country. Thee Creeks protested and asked for a new survey, in the spring of 1870.

            The Sac and Foxes moved further west and the agency was located in a big horse-shoe bend of the Deep Fork River about six miles south of the present town of Stroud.

            Miller, who was the Indian Agent and Dr. Cook, the Government Doctor for the Indians, and I lived in a long log house and kept “batch” that first year.

            One time while we were eating, an Indian by the name of Chuck-a-ho (Shack-a-ho) came along. I had learned enough Sauk [another name for Sac] to talk a little with thee Indian, and Miller told mee to invite him in to eat with us. While we were eating Miller asked Chuck-a-ho why he didn’t wear pants? I did the interpreting. Chuck-a-ho asked Miller if he would give him some pants, and Miller said that he would. So Miller told me to go down to John Whistler’s store and buy a pair of pants for Chuck-a-ho. The next time we saw him, he was wearing them like leggings. When asked why he had done that, he said that they choked his seat.

            That first year the Government provided the Sac and Foxes with rations which were issued every other day. They were given salt, pork, flour, lard, green coffee, and tobacco. I remember being a dinner guest at an Indian camp one time, and as a special delicacy they melted a cup of lard and gave it to me to drink.

            There was a company of soldiers stationed at the Sac and Fox Agency, about one hundred, I believe. They were given rations every other day, but on the alternate days for the Indians.

            When I first went to the Agency we hauled supplies from Kansas City. We had a great big wagon with six mules to the wagon. I remember one time we went after potatoes. The weather was cold. We took some hay with us but that didn’t last so after that we cut down cottonwood trees and let the mules eat the tiny branches. However, we did have grain for them. We loaded up six wagons with potatoes and started toward home. When we were near Ottawa, Kansas, the weather turned extremely cold and all of the potatoes froze. We hauled them along and they began to rot. When we got to Honey Falls we dumped the whole load.

            Sometimes we would be six weeks making a trip. Later the Government made an arrangement to buy supplies by contract in Arkansas and they were delivered by the seller.

            There was a great deal of sickness among the Sac and Foxes that first year. I believe there were about six hundred died between the first payment and the second payment. Dr. Cook was the first doctor for the Sac and Foxes and was succeeded by Dr. Williams.

            One of my duties at the agency was to drive the Ambulance. It was not the same as an ambulance these days. But was somewhat like an old stage coach or a hack. The drivers’ seat was raised above the others. The seats for the passengers were a long ways of the coach and faced each other. We usually hitched four mules to it.

            I believe it was in 1870 and thereafter for several years that the Government tried to get all the tribes of the Territory together for a council. They met at Okmulgee. I drove the “Ambulance” that hauled the Sac and Fox chiefs to that council in 1870 and 1871. There was Miller, the Agent, Keokuk, Check-a-shuk, Potaquaw and several others of the tribe who were braves. Some of them rode horseback. I remember very well thee first year that I was to meet them in a grove of trees just east of the Mission School at sunrise.

            Okmulgee was not much of a town at that time. There was only about seven stores. One of them was the Patterson Store.

            The Kiowas, Caddos, and Apache didn’t want to come to that council but they finally agreed. However, they went into camp on a creek just west of Okmulgee and refused to go any further until they had a feast and smoke a pipe of peace. So they were provided with a big barbecue and all joined in a big smoke. Afterward they went into the Council. They hesitated to go to this Council because they had had trouble with the other tribes with whom they were going to meet.

            There wasn’t any Post Office at the Sac and Fox Agency in the beginning, and I had to go on horseback to Okmulgee to get the mail. I didn’t go at any regular time, just about once in two or three weeks. It was fifty-two miles to Okmulgee.

            While I was at thee Agency they made a brick yard about one and a half miles south of the Agency. I hauled bricks from that yard over northwest of the Agency across Deep Fork where they were building a house for Keokuk. They also build the first school house of bricks from that brick-yard. It is still standing today as a part of the class rooms at the Sac and Fox Mission School.

            The first school was in a log house and a Miss Honeysuckle was the first teacher. She had about sixteen or seventeen pupils. She taught there for two years. Among my many other duties I had to substitute for Miss Honeysuckle for a few days.

            When the new school was built, they had a big barbecue and invited all the Indians. Each child that was going to school was given two suits of clothes.

            The governor bought cattle for the Indians but most of them died with ticks (Texas Fever). The wolves were bad to kill the calves. However, the colts suffered the most from the wolves. They would ham-string a colt and eat just a little and leave the rest. Even so, there were lots of wild horses in the country. I remember of counting sixty-four in one herd.

            There was a cattle trail near the Agency. There would be about two thousand five hundred head in a herd, with about seven cowboys and one cook for each herd. I have seen as many as fie herds go by in one day. They were being driven to Montana.

            One of these herds belongs to a man by the name of Chisholm. I don’t think it was the famous Jesse Chisholm, but it was some relative of his. He had a ranch down on the Canadian River. I asked him what he would take for one hundred head of them and he told me four dollars a head, for the good ones.

So I said, “Cut ‘em out”.

After he and his men had cut out the one hundred head, he said, “I will give you one more for good measure.”

 I had been saving my money and had the cash to pay for them.

            The Sac and Foxes objected to my grazing my cattle on their land. They said that I should be adopted into the tribe and become one of them. I didn’t want to do that, so I sold the cattle to John Whistler.

            One time when the Government was making payment to the Sac and Foxes a man by the name of Enoch Hoag who was the agent for the Southern Division, made a speech to the Sac and Fox Council. It was a long talk and he told them that he wanted them to become civilized and live like white men, that he wanted them to become Christians and love Jesus Christ.

When he had finished, one of the Sac and Fox Chiefs by the name of Cheek-o-skuk got up and replied angrily, “What do you mean – love Jesus Christ like white man. White man killed Jesus Christ. Indian didn’t kill Jesus Christ”

Another Sac and Fox Chief was Pa-ta-qua who had three wives at that time. Keokuk was another chief, and he had two wives at that time.

As a result of the Civil War, the Indians attached to the Sac and Fox Agency had a lot of claims against the government. Finally the government agreed to settle and sent a lot of forms to be filled out by thee claimants. The agent gave me a bag with about twenty-five pounds of those forms and sent me down to old Shawnee town to get the claims written up. I went on horseback. When I got to the North Canadian River, it was in flood. After a while an Indian swam the river pulling a kind of boat behind him. It was made of green buffalo hides stretched on a frame-work of poles. The Indian told me to leave my horse on the north side of the river, that it would be taken care of and to ride across the river in the boat. Which I did. The Indian swam and pulled the boat across.

I was there about six weeks getting the claims all fixed up. About sixty per cent of those claims were paid. At that time there was an Irishman running the store at Shawnee Town. I think his name was Clay. The store was the typical Stockade kind used so much in those days as stores.

In Decembre of 1871 I took the Sac and Fox Chiefs and some braves to Muskogee in the ambulance. They were on their way to Washington to see president Grant. They took the first passenger train that went north from Muskogee. After they arrived in Washington, they had to wait days and days. Finally they were granted an audience and went to the place appointed. They sat in chairs along the wall and waited a long time, when a man came and motioned for them to follow him.

When they were ushered into Grant’s presence he said, “Well, what do you want? I can only see you twenty minutes.”

Grant proceeded to have things investigated. I don’t know whether the Sac and Foxes got what thy wanted or not. It was on this trip that one of the Sac and Fox braves by the name of Qui-quan-a-Peek-qua took sick with pneumonia and was taken to the hospital. The chiefs reported that he was given a nice room and excellent care. He died and was buried at the Arlington Cemetery.

I remember one time, that a large company of soldiers were moving from Fort Sill to Fort Gibson. They had one wagon with about five tons of bacon on it. The mules got stuck in the river, so they captain had the mules unhitched from the wagon and a long rope fastened to the wagon tongue. He then ordered the soldiers to strip and get into the water and pull the wagon out. It was winter and the water was very cold. They surely hated to do it, but they got the wagon out.

I worked for the Sac and Fox Agency about five years and then went up into Kansas to take up land. I married soon after that. In 1889 I left Kansas and moved to the Texas panhandle for my wife’s health.

When the Cheyenne and Arapaho country was open in 1892, I made the run and secured a farm where the present town of Strong City now stands, however, I had nothing to do with starting the town. I was living in Roger Mills County. A man by the name of Lum Baker and I were partners in the ownership of a ranch in the Texas panhandle of fifty-six sections of land. We had about three thousand head of cattle on that ranch. Our brand was the Bar HX (a horizontal bar above and cross thee top of the two letters like this: HX) It was made with a running iron. I remember on deal I made shortly after the opening of the Cheyenne and Arapaho country when I sold a man in Montana eight hundred head of cattle for sixteen dollars a head.

The Buffalo Grass in that country was fine cattle feed. It would bee a great thing if they could get enough Buffalo Grass seed to put that country back into grass. There are lots of people who think that Buffalo Grass does not have seeds but it does. They grow close down to the ground.”

The End

**There is a footnote on the document this transcript came from that at the time of the interview Charles (Chaz) E. Guernsey was 89 years old. The interviewer, Don Whistler (Whose Father is mentioned in the article), was at that time a field worker on Indian history for the University of Oklahoma.**

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